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Makeup by Tiffany Thompson

www.glambabymakeupartistry.com

443-465-7892

https://www.instagram.com/glambabymakeupartistry/

Face Brushes

 

1. Duo fibre brush– The duo fibre brush or stipple brush is often made of synthetic hair, or can be a mixture of both synthetic and natural hairs.

 

Strengths- This brush can give a lightweight, airbrushed appearance to cream and liquid products when buffed into the skin. Works well with liquid or cream foundation, concealer, cream bronzer, cream blush, and cream or liquid highlighters.

 

2. Kabuki brush-

This brush is most often made of natural hair, and is very dense. Also, be aware that there are two types of kabuki brushes.  One type is like the one pictured above, and the other is made of synthetic bristles and is used like a buffing brush.

 

Strengths- Great for applying powders to large areas, like face powder or bronzer to the shoulders and neck. Also works well with mineral makeup.

 

3. Powder brush-This brush is most often made of natural hair. It comes in various sizes, and shapes.

 

Strengths- Because this brush comes in many shapes and sizes, you can suit whatever you needs have. If you only want to apply powder products to a select area of the face, opt for a smaller version. If you want to apply a face powder all over, a large fluffy powder brush can save you time.

 

4. The fan brush– Made of either natural or natural and synthetic hairs.

 

Strengths-Amazing for applying powder highlighter to the tops of your cheekbones, or for setting under eye concealer.

 

5. The angled blush brush– This brush is typically made from natural hair, and is cut on an angle.

 

Strengths- Incredible for applying blush, bronzer, or a highlighter. Because of its angled shape, this brush also works great with any powdered contouring product. Make a fish face, and suck in your cheeks to find the hollows below your cheekbones. Nestle the brush right in the hollow and blend from your ear to right under the apple of your cheek.

 

6. The flat foundation brush– The bristles are typically made with synthetic fibers, which is ideal for putting on cream or liquid foundations. It has long dense bristles, which make up its paddle like shape.

 

Strengths- Use this brush to apply your moisturizer, foundation, or any cream or liquid product.  Because of its shape, this brush can be great if you want a more full coverage look. It also can be good for feathering out the edges of other cream products.

Weaknesses- This brush does not buff the product into your skin, and can leave streaks in your foundation. It lays the product down on the skin, which can give off an unnatural or heavy look if you do not blend with something else.  To fix this dilemma just use your fingers to blend your foundation in after you apply it with this brush.

 

7. The buffing brush– This brush is made with synthetic fibers, and has shorter densely packed bristles.

Strengths- This brush is amazing if you want an airbrushed appearance to your skin. It buffs and blends liquid or cream foundation into the skin effortlessly. You can also use it to work you primer or moisturizer into the skin. It leaves no lines, and leaves your skin looking like skin.

 

8. The concealer brush– a small, flat, tapered brush with a dense arrangement of bristles.

Strengths- This brush allow you to apply a concentrated amount of product where you need it most. My favorite job for this brush is actually laying down an inner corner highlight. Because of its shape, it is great at packing on eye shadow, while leaving minimum fallout.

Weaknesses- Can apply a heavy dose of your favorite concealer, but does not blend or buff out the edges.

 

9. Pin-point concealer brush– A thin, tiny, and tapered brush that is shaped similar to an eyeliner brush.

Strengths- This brush is great for the tiniest of imperfections, just be sure to blend around the area by dabbing with your fingers.

Eye shadow Brushes

 

1. The fluff brush– Thick fibers bundled together provide for applying color all over the lid.

Strengths-Because of its fluffy nature, it is able to blend out small areas as well.

 

2. The liner brush– It’s very thin tapered tip allows this brush to apply gel or liquid eyeliners with ease.

Strengths-It is great for winging out a cat eye or for pushing product into the roots of the lashes.

Weaknesses- Needs to be cleaned after every use. 

 

3. The push liner brush-This brush is composed of stiff, short, and straight bristles, which allow for precise application.

Strengths-This brush is great for wiggling eye shadow in at the base of your eyelashes. Because of its stiff bristles, it is great for beginners or those who want a softer look.

 

4. The shader brush- The densely packed, tapered bristles make this brush ideal for packing color on all over the eye.

Strengths- This brush works great for applying a highlight to the brow bone or for packing on color all over the lid.

 

5. & 6. - The blending brush– A fluffy, tapered brush with longer soft bristles.

Strengths- This is probably the most useful brush I own. If you want to lay down color anywhere on your eye, this brush can do it. If you need to blend out harsh edges, it can do that too. This brush is also amazing at buffing in concealer. If I had to choose one, I would stick with a smaller version of this brush, as the number 5 listed above.

 

7. The pencil brush– A small detail brush, with a grouping of fine hair that is tapered into a pencil shape.

Strengths- This brush is great for mapping out a cut-crease, or for blending in color or eyeliner into the roots of your eyelashes.

 

8. The spoolie– This brush has a coarse, stiff, spiral formation of bristles, and is used wet to apply mascara.

Strengths- If you’re going to apply anything to your eyebrows, this brush is necessary. Many eyebrow pencils now come with a spoolie on the opposite end.

 

9. The angled brush– A stiff, thin line of bristles cut on an angle.

Strengths- This brush is perfect for using shadow to create a defined brow. It is thin enough to mimic your natural eyebrows. This brush is also great for using eye shadow softly at the lash line, and then flicking upwards in a cat eye shape.

 

Brush Top Picks

 

 

1. Real Techniques buffing brush- Use for cream and liquid foundations.  This brush leaves your skin flawless and airbrushed.

 

2. Sigma large angled contour brush- This brush just applies blush and bronzer so well. It is also amazing for contouring with powder products. The angle allows you to nestle it right under your cheekbone, resulting the perfect contour.

 

3. MAC 116 blush brush- This brush is just a great size for whatever powder product you want to apply. I like it for applying setting powder down the center of the face, and under my eyes. It is fluffy enough to where you do not pack on the product, but small enough to get under the eyes.

4. Real Techniques deluxe crease brush- Now I know this brush is meant to be used as an eye shadow brush, but I cannot live without it for concealer. You could absolutely use this brush for buffing out your shadow, but it is the best brush I have ever used for blending in concealer. This brush is great for blemishes or under the eye.

 

5. Sigma F-70-concealer brush- I have tried using this brush for its intended purpose, and it gets the job done.  With that being said, this brush is great for laying down eye shadow. If I am trying to build up color, this is my go to brush. I also love this brush for brightening up the inner corner of the eye.

 

6. MAC 217 blending brush- I have many versions of this brush from all different companies, but this is my favorite.  I like it so much because of the size. Many versions are not tapered enough for detailed blending, and end up buffing color up or out too high. This brush is just perfect.  This brush fits in the crease, can lay down color, or buff out concealer. There is a reason this is in every makeup artist’s kit, it works!

 

7. MAC 224 tapered blending brush- It is not that this brush can do a myriad of things, because it cannot.  However, regardless, I use it every day. If you want a subtle wash of color in the crease for natural definition, this brush gets it done. This brush works great as your final clean blending brush to buff your eye shadow into nothing

 

Brush cleaning and maintenance

 

Spot cleaning

Spot clean your brushes every 1-2 weeks depending on how often you use them. Use a cleanser like this one from MAC, to remove surface stains, and bacteria. To spot clean follow these steps:

1. Pour a small amount of cleanser into a short glass.

2. Fill another cup or dish with clean water.

3. Dip only the bristles of the brush into the cleanser, and then gently rub the bristles in a circular motion on a clean paper towel or cloth. Repeat this step until cleaned

4. Rinse the clean brush off in the water, then pull the bristles back into their original shape.

5. Allow brushes to air-dry over the edge of a table or counter, so that the bristles are not touching anything.

 

Deep cleaning

Deep clean your brushes every 1-4 weeks depending on how often you use

them. If you are a makeup artist, your brushes must be cleaned (sanitized) before every client. To deep clean, follow these steps:

1. Start out with a gentle shampoo or cleanser, I like Dawn dish detergent and Johnson and Johnson baby shampoo. If you are going to use baby shampoo, spring for the actual name brand. I have tried off brands, and ended up going through the bottle three times faster, and washing the same brushes repeatedly.

2. Pour the cleanser into a cup or into the palm of your hand. At the sink, wet the bristles of your brush. Keep your brush as vertical as possible, to keep water from running back into the ferrule.

3. Apply the shampoo, and lather the bristles up by running over the palm of your hand.

4. Rinse the bristles off, and pull them back into the original shape. Let air dry over the edge of a table.

 

Great Low Cost Brush Companies

 

Morphe

Real-Techniques

Bdellium

Crown Brush

 

Foundation Types

There are many types of foundations on the market today.  While they all cover skin imperfections and help us to look our very best, they are different in how they are made, the type of coverage they provide, and the finish.  

 

Liquid Foundation

Liquid foundation is a basic term for foundations that come in liquid form. There are many specialized versions, including oil-free, oil-based, waterproof and even 24-hour

This type of foundation is one of the most commonly used today because of its versatility and ease of use. Depending on its formulation, its coverage can vary from light to heavy. Liquid foundation is suited for all skin types.   The right kind of liquid foundation can leave skin looking “dewy” and healthy.

 

Cream Foundation

Cream foundation is typically most suited for more mature skin. When set with powder, this foundation has longer lasting power than most other types. It typically also has better coverage than most, making it well suited for those with very uneven skin tone or with blemishes to cover. Creams can work best for dry skin. However, some cosmetics companies also produce cream-to-powder foundation, which in essence is cream in consistency upon application, but dries to a matte, powder-like finish.

 

Tinted Moisturizer

Tinted moisturizer provides light coverage and will cover up some unevenness, but is best for women with even skin. It is exactly as it states, a moisturizer with a wash of sheer color. The product moisturizes the skin and provides the skin with an all-over sheer color. Tinted moisturizer is a great bet in warmer months when little coverage and some moisture are required. While some tinted moisturizers provide some SPF protection, it may not be enough

When it comes to coverage, tinted moisturizer is on the lightest end of the spectrum. This type of product is more of a moisturizer than an actual foundation and typically only serves the purpose of evening out some inconsistencies in the skin tone.

Depending on its formulation, this product is suited for just about any skin type. However, if you have blemishes to cover, tinted moisturizer alone may not give you the result you are looking for.  Tinted moisturizer can also be used with concealer for some spot or blemish coverage.  This product is best used to achieve a natural, no-makeup look but coverage can be increased slightly when set with powder (with the added bonus of further mattifying the skin!).

 

Matte, or "Oil-free," Foundation

Created for women with oily skin, matte (also marketed as "oil-free") foundations are formulated with water and not oil. They tend to dry quickly, so you will want to blend it in with a sponge or your fingers as soon as you apply. In addition, always use moisturizer or foundation primer first to add an extra layer of moisturizer.

 

Stick Foundation

Stick foundations are portable so you never have to worry about spills in your purse or bag. The coverage tends to be heavier, making them perfect for covering up blemishes, scars, reddened areas and dark under-eye circles.

Stick foundations are best for normal to oily skin. If you have dry skin, make sure to apply a bit of moisturizer first because stick foundations can cake up on you. This is why I recommend using stick foundations only on your problem areas, leaving the rest of your face to regular liquid or cream foundation.

Stick foundations typically have the heaviest coverage but they are very versatile.  You can break down stick foundations for a lighter coverage with a moisturizer but they are still buildable for one-step blemish covering.  

 

Powder (or Compact) Foundation

Powder foundation comes in compact form, so it makes a great foundation for women who want on-the-go portability.  Because it is a powder and foundation in one, you can stick this foundation in your purse and use it when you need it.

There are all sorts of formulations of powder foundation. You can get oil-free formulas, which are great for oily skin, or cream foundations, which work best on normal to dry skin.

 

Mineral Foundation

Mineral makeup is technically powder foundation.  Technically, most makeup is "mineral" makeup as it contains many of the same elements as mineral-based formulas, the differences lie in the ingredients that the mineral foundations leave out. Because mineral makeup does not include parabens, fragrance, talc, preservatives, oil, or other harsh chemicals, they are ideal for sensitive or breakout-prone skin types that often become irritated with heavier formulas.

 

Eyeshadow 101

 

The basic concept of any eye shadow design is to shape and shade in well-blended progression of light to dark colors. Three key points to keep in mind:

• Light colors will highlight or emphasize shallow areas.

• Dark colors will recede or minimize fuller, more prominent areas.

• Always load your brushes with a small amount of color since it is easier to add more eye shadow than to remove it.

You must start your eye shadow with a PRIMER

 

• Every eye look must have a transition color. (Should be matte- no shimmer or sparkle)  This helps to blend the shadow for a natural and blended eye look.

• Use a fluffy blending brush to apply your transition color (use window wiper strokes)

• Use a fluffy blending brush to apply your crease color (use window wiper strokes)

• Using a flat eye shadow brush apply the lighter color to the lid (use patting motion to pack on color) and then blend out edges

• For a more intense look, use a darker colored eye shadow in the outer V of your eye to intensify and give more depth into your crease.  

• BLEND, BLEND and BLEND more!

• BLEND AGAIN

• Keeping the second color in and just slightly above the crease will create a natural highlight under the brow’s arch while shading the outer corner of the eye.

Essential Eye shadow Tips

• Tap off any excess eye shadow from your brush before applying. This prevents over-application and minimizes flaking eye shadow.

• Eye shadow looks should be a combination of different textures, mattes and shimmers.  Can be all matte, but should never be all shimmer unless you are on a runway.

• Do not apply just one color and never apply the same color all the way to the brow.  There must be a transition!!!

 

Highlighting, Contouring and Strobing

 

Highlighting and contouring is the placement of light and dark colors on the face to mimic shadows and light reflection. It is a lot easier than it sounds, do not worry!

 

Think of contouring as adding shadows to your face to diminish certain spots while helping other points to stand out. Take the cheekbones for example: By placing a contour in the hollows of the cheeks, you can help to mimic a natural shadow and give the appearance of a more prominent cheekbone. You can also use a contour down the sides of your nose if you want to visually decrease its width or if you have a square face (like yours truly) you can place a bit of bronzer on the outer corners of your forehead and jawbone to help soften your face shape.

 

Highlighting is the opposite of contouring and if we were taking the SAT the word association would be a little something like this – Contour is to Shadow as Highlight is to Brighten. You can utilize highlighting to help certain features stand out and give your complexion a gorgeous glow. If you are contouring underneath the cheekbones, (the most common contour) you should definitely be highlighting above your contour to brighten the face and help your cheekbones stand out. The same thing goes for your nose; if you are contouring the sides of your nose to slim it place a small bit of highlighter down the center of your nose to draw attention there and further add to the optical illusion. I also like to highlight between my eyebrows and on my chin to help minimize my square facial shape.

 

Even though blush is not *technically* part of a highlight & contour routine I wanted to talk about it for a quick second. When it comes to blush, I always recommend for people to apply blush in an upward motion kind of between the highlight & contour. Applying blush upward towards your temple helps to lift your face and give a more youthful appearance. If you struggle with where to start your blush, you can smile, find the apples of your cheeks, and then sweep up from there.

 

Strobing

 

Strobing is different from contouring because no dark shades are used. Instead, bright highlights are placed on areas of the face where the light naturally hits to create an illuminated complexion. Those areas include the tops of the cheekbones, the temples, center of the nose and on the cupid’s bow.